XWORLD, Stage 08: Sandstorms, muddy tracks, stony deserts - from Ulan Bator to Ulan Bator

The eighth stage of the XWORLD Tour 2008/2009 was a round trip - the starting point and destination was Ulan Bator, the capital of Mongolia. An account of the journey by the participants, who drove through sandstorms and stony deserts together with a film team from DSF.

"It is a good thing that we did not start our XWORLD stage on the very first day, but rather had a day to relax in Ulan Bator. We use the time to take a look at this town - whose name translates as "Red Hero" - between the traditional and the modern, before starting our tour through Mongolia on the following day. With us this time: a TV team from the German station DSF, who wish to make a documentary about the XWORLD Tour.


They have selected the right stage for this. Right from the start after leaving the town, we get down to off-road driving. What are shown on the map as complete roads have not even been begun. As well as this, it was extremely dry. Clouds of dust soon form around our Landcruisers - which could be dangerous if someone suddenly stopped and couldn't be seen. On this first day we keep having to stop: A severe sandstorm blows up and for safety the entire convoy stops, because you couldn't even see the end of the bonnet.


There was no question of carrying on until the sandstorm had subsided. Immediately afterwards there was a strange mixture of sand and water rain, which severely impaired our vision, and through which we carefully felt our way. Unfortunately, not for long: a forced break for the first tyre change - of all things with the DSF camera team's vehicle.


Shortly before our destination, Bulgan, we meet a proud shepherd who is on his way home from a horse show, together with his horse and his family. The horse was magnificently decked out - and his pride about the victory was plain for all to see. Exhausted and very sandy, we finally reach the first "Ger Camp", a yurt camp near Bulgan - the capital of the province Bulgan -Aimag.


We sleep well that night, and somehow do not hear the rain which keeps on falling. It is only the next morning that we see what it has done: All of the routes to the north have been turned to mud. With our four-wheel drive, that is not a great problem; we easily manage the first river crossings as a team - until we cannot drive any further because of the high water level. Although there are alternative routes, the necessary bridges have either been undermined by the water or no longer exist. Half way along, we decide to turn back to Bulgan, because we are unable to travel further north.


At about midday we finally return to Bulgan. Together we re-plan the tour and decide to detour into drier regions.

A good decision, even if the off-road driving becomes increasingly difficult. Although the region is dry and we no longer sink in the mud, there are increasing numbers of stones on the tracks, which make heavy demands on our shock absorbers. The mountain range through which we cautiously travel, demands all our skills as drivers.


On the way back we want to visit the inhabitants of a yurt, and simply stop. Suddenly the shepherd is standing in the doorway.... everyone is delighted. He invites us for a meal and gives us products which he has made himself, such as bread, milk, butter and cheese. As we learn from our local guide, he owns 800 animals - a fortune in this region. Our shepherd breeds horses, yaks and sheep. He even wants to slaughter a goat in our honour and hold a celebration in the evening - but because we are pressed for time, we unfortunately have to refuse. A great meeting at the edge of a nameless track in Mongolia.


Our hard work at the wheel (or as co-driver shouting "watch out!") is rewarded by the view. The scenery becomes increasingly impressive: The distance cannot be described if you are not standing there. We are accompanied by a tremendous play of colours, we see wild animals and also view our first camels. In the evening we reach a Ger Camp by a lake.


Finally we reach Altai, the provincial capital of western Mongolia. There, Jumbo Schreiner from DSF joins us and his team after an adventurous outward journey. His station writes about him: "Jumbo Schreiner is probably the most heavyweight personality which TV has to offer at the moment. Together with his friend and colleague Srecko "Meci" Stojmirovic, in DST Motor he tests automobile experiences to the limit. He is in the right place with us…


With the new participant on board we drive through the foothills of the Altai Mountains, a mountain range about 2,100 kilometres long. Soon we are driving through boulder fields, see glistening glaciers and cross the first desert-like regions. Our route for the day also takes us through a landscape characterised by the cliffs and gorges of the almost unknown Gichigniy-Nuruu Mountains - foothills of the Altai.


During the next two days we drive through a fairytale landscape, spend the night near Changai in a yurt camp in the mountains with volcanoes nearby. On the next evening the place where we are to stay the night is not yet complete - the opening is planned for 14 days later. We can stay there in spite of this: the people get busy and arrange everything for us. Even the furniture for the restaurant has to be carried in - and the kitchen conjures up an unforgettable meal.


On little-travelled gravel tracks we arrive at the Gobi Desert, crossing many river beds on the way and we struggle to find our way using our GPS navigation systems. How difficult it used to be… Thanks to our technical support we reach the dunes of the Southern Gobi and are thrilled as we drive through or over the sand dunes. We turn into a Ger Camp nearby.


During the evening tent camp on the following day near the small town of Chandimani, our XWORLD team once again gains a new member: We adopt a faithful shepherd dog which is never away from our side. Just like the tool box. It is not worth packing it away properly… These days we are forever having flat tyres or something is coming loose. We screw, fix, repair and improvise several times a day. However, the filming is going perfectly - even without a script. That is provided by nature.


The mighty desert accompanies us the next day as well. We drive along its border towards the Khuislin-Naiman National Park, our destination for the tenth day. We spontaneously decide to make a short detour to a monastery not far from the Orchon waterfalls. What we cannot see on the map (they are really not very good in this area…): In a forest we have to negotiate an extreme inline, as the monastery is situated on a mountain peak. Thank God: nothing happens to anyone - and even so: once you have arrived at the monastery, you can be re-born in a cave. The trick is simple. You go into the very, very narrow cave WITHOUT shoes, turn round and slip out again. Once you have managed the turn, you really feel as though you have been re-born…


It is unfortunate that the excursion to the monastery was not too kind to our "Hilux": a broken spring. Carefully (as far as one can say this) we drive to the next destination, Karakorum, the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The "Hilux" can go to the workshop (where the spring, which is broken in 4 places is welded after two attempts). We look for a Ger Camp in Karakorum the former centre of the Mongolian Empire. It was probably founded in the year 1220 by the Mongol prince Genghis Khan. Even today, for the Mongols, Karakorum is the nucleus and the birthplace of their nation state. Today, a great deal of the former glory of the city can still be seen - even though the Chinese almost completely destroyed the city in 1388 as they liberated themselves from Mongolian domination. On the last day we have weather like on the first day: simply terrible. We notice this on the return journey to Ulan Bator by the number of cars which are bogged down in the mud. As XWORLD members, we don't simply drive past.

We give active help with our winches and straps. Tired and exhausted, but completely satisfied, in the evening we reach Ulan Bator and as well as asphalt roads - civilisation. We have 3,440 kilometres behind us, of which 3,000 kilometres were off-road over sand and rocks. One thing is clear to us: we want to take part in another of the XWORLD stages. And we certainly want to watch our XWORLD tour on DSF in the middle of July 2008, in order to indulge in our memories and feel the sand between our teeth…